Regulador de Alternador Externo

[IceMat]

capitan, si sabes ingles, esto te puede ayudar


How To: External Voltage Regulator.

I just installed an external voltage regulator (VR) on my 86 GLH. Is there any interest in seeing a how to with pics for dummies? I know there are dozens of posts on the topic with varying text instructions, but I have seen a lot of posts that people are still confused on how to do it. If there is interest, I will post some pics to go with the instructions.

External Voltage Regulator Install How To (1986 Omni GLH, other vehicles similar)

The Problem:
Alternator not charging (output below 12.8v volts) or alternator over charging (output 14.7+ volts). When the voltage regulator (VR) fails, in most cases it will fail “open” (no charge) but it can fail “closed” and cause and overcharge. Complete basic troubleshooting (a good outline of that is here: http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/charging.html#charging) to determine if the VR has failed.

The Culprit:
Your voltage regulator is located in your power module (PM, computer next to battery) in your 85-87 Dodge. (In later years, the VR is also in the main computer under the hood?). This built in VR seems to be failure prone, and renders an otherwise good power module useless.

The Solution:
Use a tried and true electronic external voltage regulator to control your alternator output. These regulators were used for decades on older Mopars, and are very reliable. Any VR from a 70’s or 80’s truck or RWD car will work. They are less than $20 new, and nearly free used. There are numerous regulators from different makes that will work, I used a Mopar one because that is what I had. By tapping in to the existing wiring, we will maintain the use of our factory volt gauge. It will also allow for easy switching back to an internal regulator should you happen to find a working PM.

Parts List:

    * Mopar Voltage Regulator
    * Plug with pigtails for regulator
    * 3 x 18” 16awg wires (preferably green, blue and black)
    * 1 x crimp loop connector
    * Electrical tape/ shrink tube
    * Solder
    * Zip Ties
    * Wire loom
    * 2 self-tapping sheet metal screws


Tools:

    * Drill & 1/8” bit
    * Screwdriver
    * Soldering Iron
    * Volt meter
    * Wire stripper/knife
    * Crimping tool
    * Wire Cutters
    * Pin-out diagram as found in Service Manual


Procedure:

   1. Place VR on driver side shock tower next to relays. Mark and drill holes for mounting.
   2. Solder the blue and green wires to the blue and green leads on the VR plug. If your wire colours don’t match, don’t worry. As far as I know, these two connections are interchangeable. The green wire went to the center pin on my VR, blue one to the side pin on mine. Tape/shrink wrap connections.
   3. Crimp loop onto end of black wire.
   4. Screw VR to shock tower. Connect black wire w/loop to one mounting screw, and plug in your pig tails. Good grounds are important here.
   5. Examine the upper plug on your power module (or only plug on newer cars). A pin-out diagram is helpful here. Locate the 2 field wires from your alternator. Mine had one black, one green. Confirm by checking each for continuity to appropriate field terminal on alternator. Locate the J2 (key on hot) circuit on the same connector. Mine was a heavy dark blue wire. Confirm 12v at key on.
   6. Unplug the upper plug on your power module (or unplug your computer on later cars).
   7. Disconnect battery, even though it is dead anyway.
   8. Strip 1/2”-3/4” of insulation off each of the three wires you just identified. Do not cut them.
   9. Solder the green wire from the VR to the green field wire, the blue wire from the VR to the blue (“J2” switched 12v) and the black ground wire to the remaining alternator field wire. Tape connections thoroughly.
  10. Use the wire loom and zip ties to route and secure wiring.
  11. Reconnect computer and battery, start car and test for voltage.


Notes:
With a working power module, my car put out 13.5 volts. With the external regulator, the car put out 14.5 volts.
The black ground wire attached at the VR mounting screw can be omitted if the untapped field of the alternator is simply grounded to the case. I chose to add the wire to the harness to make for easy switching between external and internal VR’s if required (unplug one, plug in the other).
I do not know what will happen if the external VR is installed in this manner with a shorted close or a functioning power module regulator (i.e., it may be necessary to cut or disconnect the field wires from the harness to the computer, rather than simply tapping into them).

Disclaimer: This is the procedure I used to repair my 1986 Omni GLH. Other power module equipped cars should be similar. This repair should also work on SMEC/SBEC cars, however I make no guarantees as to the suitability or safety of this modification for any application.

fuente: turbododge.com

[CyberManiaK]

Historial del Alternador:

Se cambio la linea de carga a la bateria por conato de incendio
Paso el tiempo y se cambio el alternador xk no cargaba
Duro parado el carro unos 6 meses, cuando lo reactivo, el alternador da carga de mas.
Y no ocupan explicarlo con manzanas, si entiendo un poco, pero creo k ese amigo k hizo el comentario ha de creer k el foro es para Ingenieros Mecanicos

Hey Capitan.. el comentario de las manzanas no fue para ti..  No lo mal entendiendas.  Ese comentario fue para  Tony   

[Dr Brown]

es muy sensillo el regulador solo conecta y desconecta el alternador y si, esta dentro de la computadora yo tenia ese problema y le puse un regulador externo y esta funcionando bien solo   que el foco de chek engin esta ensendido y el regulador no pasa de 150 pesillos esto puedes acerlo si no tienes para cambiar la computadora.

[Cptn_Duke]

es muy sensillo el regulador solo conecta y desconecta el alternador y si, esta dentro de la computadora yo tenia ese problema y le puse un regulador externo y esta funcionando bien solo   que el foco de chek engin esta ensendido y el regulador no pasa de 150 pesillos esto puedes acerlo si no tienes para cambiar la computadora.

Oooooorales

Entonses esta bien la solucion, muchas gracias a todos

Y CyberManiaK, gracias por la aclaracion

[Spectrum]

Oooooorales

Entonses esta bien la solucion, muchas gracias a todos

Y CyberManiaK, gracias por la aclaracion

pues es los que yo decia.. que si se puedem pero la ECU va a mandar codigo de falla.

[gts90]

eso mismo le paso a Isma GTS90 y tuvo que cambiar la ECU de su ex lebaron

jeje deja tu le puse el regulador luego le puse otra compu y me paso lo mismoooooooooo che suerte, pero es de lo mas sencillo, si te recomiendo  que lo lleves con un electrico,por todo el trabajo no creo q te cobren mas de 150 pesitos, no recuerdo bien el orden de los cables,pero para que tengas una idea de lo facil q es te lo platico un poco
compras un regulador externo para dodge y su enchufe que  es de dos cables, bueno esos cables van  al alternador a los que llegan del arnes q son delgaditos, uno de ellos lo vas a cortar y pondras uno del regulador al alternador,el otro cable del regulador se conecta al otro q esta conectado en el alternador sin cortarlo y listo! la verdad no te lleva mas de 20 minutos hacer esto, chin lo malo es q no recuerdo q cable va con cual pero era solo ilustratibo para q tengas una idea de lo q va a hacer el maistro jejeje y eso si el check se quedara prendido 

[Yaomg1782]

alguno tendrá el diagrama de como va conectado el regulador o mejor el diagrama del arnés del alternador de un phantom 93? saludos

[Spectrum]

ya esta solucionado ese problema... de hecho ya hay un tema con diagrama y toda la cosa.




es que este tema es muy viejo pero buscale.. es de "Moparstein"